A big event happened today. We crossed the Continental
Divide. For cyclists, that means that if you are one side, you roll down the
hill to the Pacific Ocean, or if you are going in the other direction, you roll
downhill to the Mississippi River, and across, eventually to Atlantic Ocean, if
you are so inclined. And we are so inclined. But what they don’t tell you is
another story.
We spent the night in Lincoln, Montana, famous among other
things as the home of Theodore Kazinsky, the Unabomber. He used to come to the
library right across the street from where we stayed to work on his manifesto.
And when he wanted to mail one of his bombs to someone whose technology he
disagreed with, he would catch a bus right by our campsite and post the letter
bomb from some other city. But all that is ancient history. So too is the 850
pound grizzly bear that was hit by a semi. The bear is now on display at the
Lincoln Forest Ranger cabin.
While in Lincoln, we discovered that our hostess for tonight’s
stay Great Falls could no longer host us. So we put the American Legion to
work, and they landed us in a Great Falls house owned by a local artist, Alma
Winberry. The house is like a gallery … one that has no space left on the
walls. Everything becomes an object-d’art.
Anyway, back to the cycling. We crossed Rogers Pass, about
18 miles outside of Lincoln, with minimal effort, and fooled ourselves into
thinking the rest of the day would be a breeze. After all, the profile map
showed a downhill route all the way. Well, let me tell you—the people who make
profile maps are like weathermen and politicians, except you can’t watch their
lips to see if they are telling a lie. At least not until you blow the map up
to an enormous size (sorry … had Ted Kozinsky excited there, for a moment).
From the summit of Rogers Pass, there are about five miles of fast downhill,
then you go up about a dozen rolling hills, each one steeper and longer than
Rogers Pass, or at least it felt that way. And at about mile 80, we turned onto
the frontage road that leads eventually into town only to discover a 30-40 mph
side wind that had us riding our bikes at about 45 degree angles to keep from
being blown over. For my Hawaii bicycling friends, it was like doing Hanauma
Bay on a very windy day, only for about 15-20 miles, and without the ocean
scenery to go with it. Not fun.
So tonight, we are exhausted. Tomorrow, Pat will get to have
company in the support vehicle because Ryan, who broke his wrist and had
surgery a few months before the bike ride, is having numbness issues and needs
to rest his hand. The rest of us are just exhausted, so whether anyone else
opts out of tomorrow’s 59 mile ride to Stanford, Montana, remains to be seen.
One of the local legionnaires, Barney (who looks a bit like Popeye), when asked about the likelihood of a tailwind,
said “Idaho blows and North Dakota sucks, so most of the wind blows towards the
east.” We’ll find out.
The service area for most cell phone providers sort of
fizzles out at various times over the next several hundred miles across eastern
Montana and North Dakota, so there may or may not be full-sized blog updates
over the next week or so. I’ll try to get some news posted, especially over 4th
of July, when we’ll be in Lewistown, Montana with just the second day off on
our bike trip across America.
Sounds like you had an interesting night at your substitute housing recently. We want to know more!
ReplyDeleteOkay, so Pat told us more over the phone last night. You're off the hook, Don!
ReplyDelete